Question 1

What areas in Central Texas does Boss Bull serve?

Accepted Answer

Boss Bull provides mobile RV repair throughout Central Texas. The service area includes Austin, Georgetown, Round Rock, Cedar Park, Leander, Pflugerville, Kyle, Buda, Bastrop, Lockhart, Luling, Seguin, San Marcos, New Braunfels, Wimberley, Marble Falls, Burnet, Georgetown, Liberty Hill, Taylor, Elgin, Smithville, Hutto, and surrounding communities. Call 512-675-3887 to confirm service availability at your location.

Question 2

What RV systems does Boss Bull repair?

Accepted Answer

Boss Bull services RV house systems — the systems that make the RV livable rather than drivable. This includes air conditioning, furnace and heat, water heater and plumbing, electrical systems (12V and 120V), slide-out and leveling systems, roof repair and replacement, leak detection, refrigerators, awnings, solar and battery systems, and more. We do not service RV engines, transmissions, chassis, or driveline components.

Question 3

Do you come to my location?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Boss Bull provides mobile service — we come to wherever your RV is located. This includes RV parks, campgrounds, storage facilities, and residences throughout Central Texas. You do not need to tow or transport your RV to a shop.

Question 4

How do I schedule a mobile RV repair appointment?

Accepted Answer

You can schedule online at bossbullrv.com/service-calendar or call us directly at 512-675-3887 during business hours (Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM CST). For emergency service outside business hours, call the same number — emergency visits are available on a case-by-case basis.

Question 5

Does Boss Bull work on RV engines, transmissions, or chassis?

Accepted Answer

No. Boss Bull focuses exclusively on RV house systems — the components that make the RV livable. Engine, transmission, chassis, tires, brakes, and driveline work require a different class of shop and equipment. We can refer you to appropriate resources for those needs.

Question 6

Why is my RV air conditioner not cooling?

Accepted Answer

The most common causes are a clogged condenser coil restricting airflow, a failed run capacitor preventing the compressor from starting, or refrigerant loss. A dirty air filter inside the RV can also reduce cooling performance significantly. If the AC is running and blowing air but not cooling, the condenser and capacitor are the first places to look. If the unit is not starting at all, confirm that 30-amp or 50-amp power is being delivered correctly at the pedestal before concluding there is a mechanical fault.

Question 7

Why won't my RV slide-out move?

Accepted Answer

Common causes include motor failure, a control relay or solenoid fault, low battery voltage at the slide circuit, mechanical binding in the slide box, or a wiring fault on the control circuit. On Schwintek dual-motor slides, failure of one motor causes the slide to bind or move only partway. A manual override is available on most systems to get the slide to a safe position when normal operation is not possible.

Question 8

Why does my RV have no 12V power?

Accepted Answer

The most common causes are a depleted or disconnected house battery bank, a blown fuse in the 12V distribution panel, or a converter that has stopped charging the batteries when connected to shore power. Check the main fuse panel and confirm the battery disconnect switch is in the on position before concluding there is a wiring fault. If the converter is running but batteries are not charging, the converter may need service.

Question 9

How does Boss Bull locate the source of an RV roof leak?

Accepted Answer

Locating an RV roof leak starts with a systematic review of the roof surface — sealant condition at vents, skylights, AC bases, antennas, and the perimeter seam where the roof meets the sidewalls. Water entry points and the location where water appears inside the RV are often not directly above each other because water travels along framing members before showing. A thorough inspection reviews the full roof surface rather than only the area above visible interior water staining.

Question 10

Why isn't my RV refrigerator getting cold?

Accepted Answer

For absorption refrigerators (LP/electric models like Norcold and Dometic), the most common causes are cooling unit failure, burner fouling on LP mode, or a control board fault. For compressor refrigerators (12V models like Everchill), the usual causes are a compressor fault, inadequate 12V power supply, or a thermostat issue. Confirm that the refrigerator has been running for several hours before concluding it is not functioning — absorption units take significantly longer to cool than residential compressor refrigerators.

Question 11

How often should I have my RV's systems serviced?

Accepted Answer

A general annual service visit is the most practical baseline for most RV owners — before or after the primary use season. This covers roof sealant condition, AC filter and condenser, water heater anode and sediment, battery terminals and charge, slide seals, and general house-system condition. RVs that are used heavily, stored outdoors, or that have specific known concerns benefit from more frequent attention.

Question 12

How do I prevent RV roof leaks?

Accepted Answer

The most effective prevention is regular inspection and maintenance of the roof sealant — particularly at vents, skylights, AC bases, antennas, and the perimeter seam. Sealant around these penetrations dries out, cracks, and separates over time. Catching a failing sealant joint before water enters is far less expensive than addressing the water damage after it has reached the substrate. Annual roof inspection and resealing of any compromised joints is the most reliable approach.

Question 13

What maintenance keeps my RV AC running well?

Accepted Answer

The most important recurring maintenance for RV AC performance is keeping the interior air filter clean and the exterior condenser coil free of debris. A clogged filter reduces airflow through the evaporator and significantly reduces cooling output. The condenser coil on the rooftop unit collects cottonwood, dust, and insects over a season — cleaning it each spring before the cooling season restores airflow and extends compressor life.

Question 14

Should I upgrade to lithium batteries?

Accepted Answer

Lithium batteries offer meaningful advantages over lead-acid for RV owners who regularly use battery power away from shore power — boondockers, full-timers, and anyone running a significant 12V load. They charge faster, discharge more deeply without damage, and maintain voltage more consistently under load. The upfront cost is higher. For RV owners who spend most of their time plugged in at a park, the benefit is more limited. A service visit can help assess whether the upgrade makes sense for your usage pattern.

Question 15

What does RV plumbing winterization involve?

Accepted Answer

Winterization protects the fresh water lines and fixtures from freeze damage during cold months. The standard approach involves draining the fresh water tank and lines, bypassing the water heater so it does not need to be filled with antifreeze, and blowing out the lines with compressed air or pumping non-toxic RV antifreeze through the system. The correct method depends on the plumbing configuration of the specific RV. De-winterization in spring reverses the process and confirms all bypasses are returned to the service position before the system is used.

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